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Introduction
Glossary
1) Beginner issues
| A101 |
Why fly electric? |
| A102 |
How do I get started? |
| A103 |
What kind of planes can I fly with electric
power? |
| A104 |
How do I sign up for the AMA/MAAC? |
| A105 |
What Kind of equipment do I need? |
| A106 |
What special tools would I need? |
| A107 |
Can you suggest a few beginner setups? |
| A108 |
Are soldered or crimp joints better? |
| A109 |
What goes on which stick? |
2) Safety
| A201 |
What safety procedures should I follow when flying? |
| A202 |
What is an arming switch? |
| A203 |
When should I use an arming switch? |
| A204 |
How much power will I lose? How much weight will I gain? |
| A205 |
What is a fuse? Why use one? |
| A206 |
What type of fuse should I use? |
| A207 |
How do I choose the fuse rating? |
| A208 |
How and where do I install the fuse? |
| A209 |
Are there any safety precautions for the motor battery? |
| A210 |
How do I fuse a brushless motor? |
3) Batteries
| A300 |
Battery Basics |
| A301 |
What's Volt, Amps, "C" rating,
etc....? |
| A302 |
What are milli-amp hours? |
|
A303 |
How fast can I charge my batteries? |
|
A304 |
What is Nicad memory? |
|
A305 |
What is Cell reversal? |
|
A306 |
Should I cycle my packs? |
|
A307 |
Can I deep discharge an individual cell safely? |
|
A308 |
What is the discharge of a Nicad like? |
|
A309 |
Black Wire Syndrome |
|
A310 |
Low Tech Cell Matching |
|
A311 |
What are the effects of series and parallel? |
|
A312 |
What are NiMH batteries like? |
|
A313 |
Can I use Lithium batteries for electric flight? |
|
A314 |
What do the battery codes like SCR, AE mean? |
|
A315 |
Is it safe to solder directly to batteries? |
4) Electric motors
| A401 |
What does "breaking-in" a motor actually do? |
|
A402 |
How do I break-in a motor? |
|
A403 |
What does gearing do? |
|
A404 |
How do I compare an electric motor to an IC engine? |
|
A405 |
What are motor constants? |
|
A406 |
What's the difference between Delta and Wye Brushless Motors? |
|
A407 |
What is "timing"? |
|
A408 |
How much should I advance a speed 400? |
|
A409 |
How do I use the "speed 400 timing tool?" |
|
A410 |
How much heat can our motors dissipate? |
|
A411 |
How can I keep my motors clean? |
|
A412 |
What is a sensorless motor/controller? |
|
A413 |
How does a sensorless motor work? |
|
A414 |
What do the motor names (Speed 400,600, 05, 25) mean? |
|
A415 |
How do I do a "Water break-in" ? |
|
A416 |
How do I measure motor constants ? |
|
A417 |
Will this cheap Mabuchi 540/380 etc. be good for E-Flight ? |
|
A418 |
How many capacitors do I need on my motor and what values ? |
|
A419 |
Should I wire two motors in series or parallel? |
| A420 |
Where can I find some information on common
brushed motor constants? |
5) Speed controllers (ESC's)
| A501 |
How does a speed control work? |
|
A502 |
What is the advantage of a High Rate Control? |
|
A503 |
What is the best switching rate for a hi rate ESC? |
|
A504 |
How does a motor brake work? |
|
A505 |
What is a BEC and how does it relate to the speed control? |
|
A506 |
What are the disadvantages of a BEC? |
|
A507 |
What is a Cutoff? |
|
A508 |
How long can I fly once the cutoff takes place? |
|
A509 |
What is opto-isolation and what does it do? |
|
A510 |
How do I disable the BEC on my speed control? |
|
A511 |
Where does my BEC speed control plug in ? |
|
A512 |
Can I control 2 brushless motors with one controller ? |
6) Propellers
| A601 |
Why doesn't my Graupner folding prop extend all the way out? |
7) Chargers
| A701 |
How does charging current relate to capacity? |
|
A702 |
How can I make certain my packs are fully charged? |
|
A703 |
How does a peak (or delta peak) charger work? |
|
A704 |
Will my charger work with Ni-MH batteries? |
|
A705 |
Will a NiCad peak charger work with Lithium batteries? |
8) Model info
| A801 |
What are the differences between Indoor, Slow and Park flyers? |
|
A802 |
What are EDF models? |
|
A803 |
What exactly are EPS/EPP/Depron and other construction foams ? |
|
A804 |
What is the watts/pound rule? |
|
A805 |
What does the Watt-hours/pound rule tell me? |
|
A806 |
How do I match an electric power system to a given airframe? |
|
A807 |
How do I convert a gas powered plane to electric? |
| A808 |
Are there any proven electric setups listed
anywhere? |
9) Electrical formulas
| A901 |
How do I calculate duration? |
|
A902 |
How do I calculate Watts? |
|
A903 |
How do I convert units of measure? |
|
A904 |
What is Orme's Law? |
Reference resources
Mailing lists
FTP sites
Web pages
Newsgroups
Non-electronic Resources
Magazines
Books
Contributor Credits
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Is it safe to solder directly to batteries?
Q. Is it safe to solder directly to batteries?
A. Steve Lewin
It depends who you listen to. In the safety instructions of every major
manufacturer of NiCad and NiMH cells that I have seen there is a very definite
instruction that you should never solder directly to the cells. The reason for
this is that the cell has a number of components which are made of plastics and
which can be damaged by excessive heat. In particular there is a vent designed
to allow excess hydrogen to be safely removed from the cell. If you damage the
vent, oxygen from the air can enter the cell and the internal chemistry will be
severely degraded, dramatically reducing the life of the cell.
However these same manufacturers will tell you that you must not charge a
cell in less than an hour and you must not discharge at higher than 15C (7.5A
absolute maximum for 500AR cells !). By their standards we are already abusing
their cells horribly.
Most of us do not have access to the spot welding machines recommended by the
manufacturers. Most cells available to us with spot welded tags have only a few
welds and thin tags, usually of the wrong material. They will not take anywhere
near the currents we require. If you have access to battery packs made with
thick pure nickel tags and at least 6, preferably 8 welds per connection these
are probably the best of all possible worlds. For most of us the only method
available for constructing packs is soldering.
To make soldering as safe as possible you must use a HOT iron with a large
heavy tip so that it keeps its temperature when you put it in contact with the
cool cell. 40Watts is the practical minimum. The objective is to have the iron
contacting the cell for as short a time as possible. NOTE : soldering guns are
bad for this use because they have very small tips and cool down too much
meaning that you hold them in contact for far too long giving the heat time to
spread to all the plastic parts. Each soldering operation should ideally take
less than 2 seconds. 5 seconds is about the limit. Clean everything well and
degrease carefully. First tin the contact and the wire or bar separately. Then
let them cool. Then reheat the wire, then the cell and put them together. Hold
them in contact until the solder has solidified, which only takes a few seconds.
Practice with some scrap cells until you are comfortable that you can do each
operation as quickly as possible.
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